In the corner of a dark, old-boy’s-clubby bistro outside of Washington, DC, my lunch companion is holding court; the restaurant’s owner is listening intently to her story of collaboration with a restaurateur in Tucson, where she lives. “I said to him, ‘Can you do anything with elk?’ I had so much elk in my freezer from hunting, I didn’t know what to do with it. So I gave some to him for an event he was planning and he served elk hors d’oeuvres: tiny elk burgers, sliced elk steak with cherry sauce.” The huntress at my table is Sandra Froman, the president of the National Rifle Association. She is flanked by Bill Powers, her public relations representative, and one of his younger colleagues. They are all clearly regulars at this restaurant, close as it is to...

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